My Dinner With George Clooney

Plus Silicone wafers and a flight from Paris to New York

Author

Mitchell Barber
June 25, 2025

The Subdial Black

New day, new format, new ideas.

Welcome to the latest edition of The Subdial Black, your curated journal for watchmaking and Horology.

You might notice something a little different with this one, something a little more professional. I’ve decided to grow up and create a big boy newsletter.

From now on, you will receive The Subdial Black every second Wednesday. It will include the latest articles posted on The Subdial, plus interesting watch news in our ‘Wrist Worthy’ section, and educational content in ‘The Subdial Academy’.

To make sure you get every issue, make sure you move this email to your ‘Priority’ tab in Gmail and mark it as important. Enjoy!

Mitch x.

FEATURED STORY

The Breva Segreto di Lario And I Have A Secret

I hadn’t heard of Breva until recently.

When I was sent the press release for their latest watch, I wondered how I had missed it. Their ethos is right up my alley. Born in 2010 in the Lake Como district, the brand got its name from the wind that blows through the region and was inspired by the natural Italian beauty that's prevalent in the area.

The Essentials

Watch News

Breguet has a new CEO

Is this a new era for the 250 year old brand? I hope so.

Three men to front court after police seize high-end cars, watches from alleged scammers

It’s not looking good for Watch Gallery in Sydney, with $10m worth of watches and cars seized.

FEATURED STORY

Understanding Photolithography In The Watch Industry

At first glance, the world of horology looks like it hasn’t evolved in the last few hundred years.

‍We still tell the time with hands spinning in a circle, and those hands are still powered by springs and gears.
As the rest of the world has moved on, us watch nerds have stuck with our flawed, yet endearing wristwatches of metal, gold, and oil.
Something interesting has begun to happen, however. The brands we know and love have been injecting innovation into their processes and products without us noticing. Movements are being taken over by exotic materials, and as a result, our watches are getting more reliable, accurate and durable than ever. It’s strange, though, regardless of what we do, they will never be as practical as something built with microchips instead of old Swiss men.

The Subdial Academy

In this edition, we take a look at the intricacies of the Swan Neck Regulator

The Swan Neck Regulator is a precision adjustment mechanism used in watchmaking to fine-tune the rate of a watch's movement. It is named for its distinctive shape, which resembles the graceful curve of a swan's neck. This component is typically found in high-end mechanical watches and is part of the balance cock, which holds the balance wheel in place. The Swan Neck Regulator allows for minute adjustments to the tension of the hairspring, thereby regulating the speed at which the balance wheel oscillates. This precise control is crucial for ensuring the accuracy of the watch's timekeeping.

The mechanism consists of a fine screw and a curved spring, which work together to adjust the position of the regulator index. By turning the screw, watchmakers can move the regulator index slightly, altering the effective length of the hairspring. This adjustment changes the rate at which the balance wheel swings back and forth, allowing for precise calibration of the watch's timing. The Swan Neck Regulator is valued for its ability to provide stable and reliable adjustments, contributing to the overall precision and performance of the timepiece. Its presence is often a hallmark of superior craftsmanship and attention to detail in watchmaking.

A Final Note

Building something tangible

I’ve had this idea for a while to bring The Subdial into the real world. Instead of only publishing with 1s and 0s, I would love to create a broadsheet-style newspaper with some awesome photography, in-depth stories and maybe a watch-related crossword or two included. Is this something you would be interested in? If yes, let me know! Reply to this email with your thoughts.

The power of a recommendation

If you enjoy The Subdail Black, I encourage you to share it with someone. It’s a great way to spread the love and helps a lot. You can do so by copying the link below and sending it to your group chat, your mum or anyone else who might like it. Your link is unique to you, and I’ll be tracking referrals so I can reward the top sharers. Thank you for being a part of The Subdial Black!

Mitch x

“The scarcest resource is not oil, metals, clean air, capital, labor, or technology. It is our willingness to listen to each other and learn from each other and to seek the truth rather than seek to be right.”
— Donella Meadows 

Cya in the next one x