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- I'm on Biver's website, and I once went diving with a man called Patrick.
I'm on Biver's website, and I once went diving with a man called Patrick.
That will all make sense, I promise.
Mitchell Barber
August 16, 2025
The Subdial Black
Ok ok, I’ve been busy!We all knew this would happen. I make promises I can’t keep and leave you all wondering where your fortnightly email has gone. All I have to say is, how did you survive?? Must have been traumatic. Aaaanyway, I’m back with another edition of The Subdial Black, and this one is a banger! Jean-Claude Biver linked to me on his website and sent me an Instagram DM. My life is now complete. Read on! I’ve only got two of my Charles Simon X The Subdial Oscar Watch Rolls left. They are an individually numbered edition of 8 in a special colour, and I want them to go to a subscriber, ‘keep them in the family’ if you will. Here’s a 10% code if you want one: thesubdialblackvip (enter at checkout). P.S. I’ll be resuming the usual schedule after this week. Promise. |   |
Featured Story
What Is The JCB Seal? Exploring Biver’s Extreme Finishing Standards
In any passion, there’s a defining moment. An event, a meetup, a piece of content that sticks with your brain. Something that marks the point of no return on your journey to infinite obsession. The door to the rabbit hole closes with a thud behind you.
For me, that moment happened a few years ago, as I was scrolling this little-known site called Hodinkee. Don’t be embarrassed if you haven’t heard of it. I was just getting into watches at the time, and I stumbled upon a video that has seared itself firmly into my brain, like a cow getting branded with a red-hot piece of iron. I can remember it clearly.
The Essentials
Watch News
 The Impact of the 39% U.S. Tariff on the Swiss Watch Industry.And The Reactions of A Major CEO, the Swiss Fed and an Analyst’ |  As India Gets Richer, Its Biggest Watchmaker Titan Crafts The Nation’s Most Ambitious Watch Yet15 million watches annually, and all for the domestic market!? |
Featured Story
Interview: The Singer Reimagined Dive Track With Marco Borraccino
One afternoon, desperate to amuse myself, I went for a walk down to the wharf. As I sat with my feet dangling over the edge, a dive boat was being unloaded after a day on the water. Its passengers were peeling off their black wetsuits to reveal tired yet satisfied-looking bodies. Tanks, regulators and fins were all being hosed off, and the late afternoon sun was blinding as it bounced off the wet deck of the boat. ‘They look happy, ’ I thought to myself, ‘maybe I’ll give that a try. ’
The Subdial Academy
Rattrapante (Split-Seconds)
A Rattrapante, also known as a Split-Seconds chronograph, is a sophisticated complication in watchmaking that allows the wearer to time multiple events simultaneously. This feature is particularly useful for timing events that start at the same time but have different durations, such as lap times in a race. The Rattrapante mechanism includes an additional seconds hand, which is superimposed on the main chronograph seconds hand. When the chronograph is activated, both hands move together. However, by pressing a dedicated pusher, the Rattrapante hand can be stopped independently to record an intermediate time, while the main chronograph hand continues to run.
Pressing the pusher again causes the Rattrapante hand to catch up with the main hand, ready to be stopped again for another split time. This complex mechanism requires precise engineering and craftsmanship, making Rattrapante watches highly valued among collectors and enthusiasts. The development of the Rattrapante function is a testament to the ingenuity and skill of watchmakers, as it involves intricate components and synchronisation. Watches featuring this complication are often considered masterpieces of horological art, showcasing both technical prowess and aesthetic elegance.
A Final Note
If you’re a watch dealer, I wanted to share an awesome tool I just found. It’s a CRM designed specifically for the watch industry. You can use it to keep track of clients, repairs and appointments etc. I’ve been looking for something like this for years, and it’s a godsend. No affiliation, just wanted to share. Check it out! https://www.chronex.app/
“The world embarrasses me and I cannot dream that this watch exists and has no watchmaker.”
Cya in the next one x
Time Is On Your Side